SEA ~ My Africa Story
 
Lets remember our African Anniversaries
December 2004
20 years ago, Bob Geldoff recorded Band Aid and the world was changed for a little while. It helped change me and so this story starts…...
4 years later in 1988, after a degree in environmental science I was in Africa being a tourist doing an exciting African explorer expedition with Exodus. I was an extreme tourist…….
After 6 months travel through 11 troubled countries, I walked up the long hill at Rumangabo, Zaire and entered what was to be my restaurant at the end of the universe, it was a small hut and I met two unlikely characters Douglas and Mark with their laptops, My diary entry for this reads….
“ …shared room with Douglas a novelist doing programme for radio 4 with zoologist Mark who used to work for WWF (show will include river dolphin, mauritius kestrel, Rodriguez fruit bat going to see kakapo and Amazonian manatee next). Also met two interesting German lads travelling from Sudan…”
It was 1989 and Douglas was recording “last chance to See” an adventure to see the rarest wildlife living on earth at that time. The Hut in question was the accommodation for tourists visiting one of the friendly families of mountain gorillas which live in the area and the Douglas in question, was The Douglas Adams, although I did not realise it at the time.
That night he told me their real reason for coming to the then Zaire… to see the Northern White Rhino…. a tremendously rare creature, which was down to less than 30 animals.
“That’s excellent” I said “We were there only 2 weeks ago and had a fabulous time taking an elephant safari and met an English woman and her family who are helping protect them”
Thanks to Jonathan, an American trailblazer, a motley crew of Danish, Icelandic, British, New Zealand, Australian and American people had descended on this little known park in the heart (or dead centre) of Africa. As part of our Exodus Exploration we had read in French that this park was enchantee (which I believe means hilly) but I understood it to mean enchanted, and in this it certainly was and still is.
Standing between the known world and the oblivions of the central African rainforest, and the great Sudanese plains is the jewel which is Garamba National Park. There is no greater park in all of Africa and no greater people than those who choose to live in this corner of the planet.
Why because these people stand in the eye of a hurricane preserving the greatest treasures on earth and this isn’t just the animals it includes the people. Of course this experience changed me once again and when I returned to the UK I moved to Shetland and started my Environmental Company with yet more committed and talented people from Greenpeace from Shetland and Scotland.
I kept in touch with the park over the years and in 1994 (Band Aid plus 10) I returned with an environmentalist friend from the Scottish Environmental Protection Agency.
Extreme tourism calls for extreme measures and I had met another lion of Africa in the name of David Macallister a Zaire born Irish man who was also committed to helping the area. He ran the Central African part of the Christian Blind Mission International, he offered to help this crazy Shetland man to visit Garamba and investigate extreme tourism as a business idea.
Of course Christmas 1994 was not a great year for the area, the Rwanda genocide was being completed and Mobuto the president of Zaire was losing control of his African jewels - the gold fields which are to be found in Eastern Zaire.
Only missionaries remained holding together the communities of Kivu through their traditional networks, and the flights of the AMREF. Flying via Arua and Aru and witnessing by air the refugee camps near the mission station on the Ugandan Sudan border (and meeting yet more fabulous people) we entered not Zaire but the newly created country of Kivu province.
This was a none country at the time, no currency and only natural laws, still it was safe and we stayed in Nyankunde a mission and hospital near Bunia. In order to help the mission I took photos of the various Blind Mission projects, eye operations and the use of Ivermectin in river blindness treatment, we flew over the gold mining camps and I saw the mercury mud mining operations which were affecting the Ituri rainforest.
Landing near Faradje we met Steve and Debbie Woolcott a real Swiss family Robinson there we stayed in a solar powered housing complex and spent Christmas with their children and travelled up to Garamba together.
Kes Smith and her family had left due to the impending troubles and although we had a excellent visit and took some beautiful photos and were safe throughout our trip including a trip to see the Okapi research station and returned to the UK we also knew that the difficulties were even beyond extreme tourists.
And so till today the situation has been difficult and I have been concentrating on developing the tourism and environmental activities from a base in the UK.
The Green Tourism Business Scheme has built to being the largest tourism ecolabel in the world, we are founders of VISIT (Voluntary Initiative for Sustainability in Tourism) and have friends and supporters throughout the UK Europe and in the World Tourism Organisation. So I am trying to do my bit in the Global jigsaw and now I can encourage our members to try and support Africa through various payback initiatives.
Being reminded of Garamba’s plight has really hit home, the rhino numbers are now back at the level they were when Kes first started working, Nyankunde hospital was destroyed and who knows how the Missionairies survived, but although this is desperately disappointing this HEART of africa has friends in many places with more influence than ever before.
The Sudanese rebels who are gaining their funding by poaching ivory, bushmeat and rhino horn are known through the problems in Dafur to the whole world. Tony Blair who heads the Africa Commission with Bob Geldoff is committed to helping Africa and the forthcoming World Trade meetings in Scotland will be held in one of our green tourism hotels. All this provides a great opportunity for positive action and with the recent findings from Muana Loa on the increasing problems of global warming action is essential.
The right people need to be aware of this story and the responsibilities knowing about it brings about. UK troops are used to stabilise Iraq and if ever they needed a clear and positive role to remind them of the value of defending human rights and our natural treasures then Garamba should be their goal.
The world has moved full circle but many of us (you included) have moved on and forward and have more opportunities to make a difference whether staying in accommodation in the UK or visiting Africa. Let us never forget the value and responsibility of Tourism. The most expensive tourism trip ever undertaken was mans journey to the moon and the vision that gave us of our small and beautiful planet, has fed the environmental movement since then.
As a firm believer in the truth, honesty and accountability let us not forget our various travels and the heroes we meet and let that inspire us to greater things, tourism changed my life and you should let it change yours.
We are all travellers in the wilderness of this world and the best we can find in our travels is an honest friend – Robert Louis Stevenson 1850-1894
Jon Proctor, trees4africa.org, c/o Aspen House, Dunkeld Road, Bankfoot, PH1 4AJ
Scotland. Email: jon.proctor@tiscali.co.uk